From Seattle to Cabo: An Epic Baja California Road Adventure

If you know anything about  Baja California you might know about the fish tacos, the invention of the Caesar Salad, beloved/infamous across-the-border sister city, Tijuana (pronounced Tee-Huaanaa, not Teeyaa-wanna) and Cabo or  Ensenada, where you may have pulled in on a cruise ship, spent spring break or camped to the song of crashing waves and starry skies overhead.

Some things you might NOT know about Baja California is that it’s actually two of Mexico’s 32 states, 1. Baja California (which includes Tijuana, Ensenada, Rosarito and San Felipe) and 2. Baja California SUR (which includes Cabo, La Paz, Loreto and Todos Santos). It’s the second longest peninsula on Earth and has Mexico’s lowest population density. The very edges of the Sonoran Desert are found here meaning you’ll see plenty of iconic Saguaro cactus and Yucca palm (Joshua tree).  It’s incredibly biodiverse, the Gulf of California and Baja California's shores are home to one-third of Earth's marine mammal species. So yea, epic and unlike any part of the world I’ve yet traveled.

The mighty saguaro cactus of the Sonoran Desert which can live up to 200 years and grow up to 60 feet tall!

I hold a deep appreciation for the country, people and spirit of Mexico and I’ve aspired to learn and experience as much as I can. Being from San Diego & Hawaii yet living in the Pacific Northwest makes a regular return south almost urgent, especially as I age.  Bare skin, big sky and sunshine are integral to my mental health. I feel bonded with the desert, it addresses a part of me that needs nourishing and regular reconnection just same as my bond with the snow capped mountains, emerald trees and gray skies of the Pacific Northwest.

Me and my favorite roadtrip buddy, my husband Justin.

When my husband was let go in the massive tech layoff wave and the climate change spiked winter nixed the Fall Season in Seattle we realized the timing was perfect for the road trip at the top of our list, Seattle to Cabo and Back with many adventures in between. Our dear friend had done it the year before with great success so we knew it was possible, safe and seemingly fantastic. But we had about three weeks (had to get home by Christmas Eve), she’d done it in 2-3 months! This was gonna take some suave planning.

With our shorter time frame and the nature heavy opportunities we knew the JOURNEY was going to be the main event. We can easily spend hours napping and eating fruit bowls on a beach but if we don’t have the luxury of extended time on a particular adventure, we can certainly get into the joy of exploring something new every day and motoring through beautiful landscapes. Baja is perfect for this, it’s mostly wide open spaces and you can drive for hours before a whisper of a town flashes up as if out of nowhere amongst the giant Saguaro cacti, glimmering beaches and red, almost purple mountains.

I mapped out a trip that would have us seeing the most we could while not driving at night (the number one recommended rule of Baja California exploration). I’ve included a few Spanish words here and there in parenthesis throughout this guide and I HIGHLY recommend a class, an app or something to help you practice speaking Spanish. It makes the trip easier and you get more opportunities to connect with more people and places.

TRIP PLANNING & TIPS

Life on the open road had many surprises in store but potholes were not one of them. The roads through Baja California were in great condition for a large majority of our drive.

1. Mexican Car Insurance: If you need it you’ll be glad you had it,  and it gave us peace of mind as we heard that it was mandatory in Mexico as it is in the US.  Luckily, we didn’t ever need to use it and we were never asked for it, not even at checkpoints, border crossings, etc. I can’t say what type of ease and coverage we would have had if we would have needed to file a claim. We used Baja Bound insurance.

2. FFM (Forma Migratoria Multiple): We weren’t asked for this Mexican short term travel visa  upon leaving Mexico and weren’t issued it upon arriving in Mexico. Word is, you don’t need it anymore for land crossings and it should be phased out by mid-2023.

3. Always Carry Pesos: ATM’s can be hard to come by and often have long lines or cash runs out. Always have some pesos on hand, especially on days you’re driving through more remote areas with limited options. US dollars are accepted in many locations but mostly in the more populated locations. Get a conversion rate app on your phone as well.

4. The Green Angels: Mexico's Tourism Board funds a force of people who patrol the Baja roads and help with flat tires, accidents, etc. We saw a truck only once but the Mexican people are very friendly and tend to pull over to help those in need.

5. Bring your pillows: There’s not a lot of things worse than trying to get a good night's rest with a terrible pillow. It adds some homeyness and familiarity to your sleep routine as well  (and you can use the other pillows for hugging or putting between your knees #sidesleepersgetit)

6. Mexican Gas Station Etiquette: Gas stations in Mexico have attendants that pump your gas and can even replace windshield wiper blades and add fluids. They often work for tips only and 5-10 pesos is customary, more if they wash your windshield or perform a service. Most accept cards but be prepared for some cash only locations.  “Lleno means full” or you can give a monetary amount to fill up to. They will ask you if you'd like “Regular (87)” or “Premium” (93).

7. Go Metric: Change your odometer and MPH reader to Kilometers to save yourself some math and possible confusion.

8. There are Two Time Zones: There is a time change of 1 hour between Baja California (Pacific Time) and Baja California Sur (Mountain Time), factoring this in when drawing up plans and schedules.

9. Google Map It: Save all your driving destinations on Google Maps and be sure to set your navigation while you still have internet, then don’t touch it till you get internet again. It will guide you whether you have wifi/cellular or not as long as you started that navigation with service. 

10. Use packing cubes in your suitcase: This is a great way to keep things organized and easy to find because you’ll be packing/unpacking every freaking day! We used these ones.

Our road trip schedule went through plenty of revisions, some of them in real time! We had 18 days to go from Metro Seattle to Cabo and back in time for Christmas celebrations.

PNW to BAJA ROAD TRIP EXTENDED ITINERARY

Friday Dec 2- Sacramento, CA

6 am: Leave Burien/Seattle/PNW

     Drive: 12 hours + lunch stop in Medford, OR (couldn't wait till CA for In-N-Out Burger!)

7 pm: Arrive in Sacramento

The Drive: The route on the 5 freeway goes through the Siskiyou Pass, which lies between the border of Oregon and CA. It can be snowy and difficult to traverse and when we road trip in the winter I regularly check the pass webcams.  If you’re coming through any mountain passes, carry chains, it’s often mandatory and may be necessary in certain seasons. We got lucky with clear passes both ways.

Love visiting family and friends when we’re road tripping!

Roadtrips give you opportunities to connect with family and friends. It saves some money to stay with loved ones and is the perfect excuse to check in and catch up. Our first night on the road I got to celebrate one of my best friends' birthdays with her and her family, the timing just worked out!  If we hadn’t stayed with fam we would have considered stops at Crater Lake, Bend, Breitenbush and towns like Eugene, Medford and Mt. Shasta.

Saturday Dec 3- Los Angeles, CA

2pm: Leave Sacramento, CA

     Drive: 7 hours

7pm: Arrive in Los Angeles, CA

The Drive: The mid California drive can go one of three ways,

1. Slowly and beautifully by way of Scenic Coast Highway 1

2. Quickly and slightly enjoyable through the “Grapevine” on the 5 Freeway

3.  A tiny bit more quickly but a whole lot less beautifully by way of Highway 99. 

Choose wisely.

-I LOVE LA and have family here as well so we usually take at least a day to explore a section of this diverse and always morphing city. On this trip I must recommend The High Low , chosen because we were staying at a Courtyard Marriott in Los Angeles Pasadena/Old Town (credit card points for the win!) and it was right off the freeway in North LA. After a long drive, dealing with city traffic would not have left us in a good way.

Sunday Dec 4- Los Angeles, CA Day 2

-Hang in LA

-Visit The Plus Bus Store  to sell clothes and get a few more warm weather items

-Seahawks vs. Rams at Sofi Stadium

-Dinner at HinoNori in Long Beach, CA 

The timing lined up perfectly to catch the Seahawks vs. Rams at the epic SoFi Stadium in LA.

Los Angeles: It seems like I encounter a new neighborhood every time I visit LA. This time I got to experience the lovely Eagle Rock neighborhood, a quickly gentrifying but still interesting little neighborhood between Glendale and Pasadena. I also got to gape in wonder at how incredible SoFi Stadium was. My husband is a Seahawks Fan and I gotta admit, it was so much fun watching the Seahawks eek out a win at this epic stadium. Afterwards we hung out in Long Beach and slurped down some delicious ramen with two of my best friends before crashing at yet another cousin's house in Harbor City. Before we left we made brekky with my niece-cousin, filled up on water, cash and snacks and hit the road!

Monday Dec 5- San Felipe, Baja California Mexico

7 am: Leave Los Angeles, CA via I-5 to the 8-E

    Drive: 6 hours + border crossing (Calexico East) + Lunch stop in Mexicali

4 pm: Arrive in San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico

Check out our San Felipe AirBnB & Review

The Drive: The drive from LA to the border (frontera) had moments of beauty and moments of California freeway overcrowding, as to be expected. We picked the route because it was the fastest from our starting point. The drive from the border to San Felipe was almost  purely through the wilderness, there was no signs of human intervention and it was glorious. The roads had neary a pothole, they were perfect. We later heard they had just repaved it in the last two years. We got stopped once on this drive, the police were checking to see if people were wearing their seat belts (cinturon), he saw we were, kindly waved us on, and we kept rolling. The drive from the border to San Felipe is very special and unlike any other part we went through. It was quite a moment to finally be able to see the shining blue Sea of Cortez/Gulf of California after driving through an almost lunar oasis of cacti and  bare, rocky red mountains. 

-The Calexico/Mexicali Border Crossing: We were prepared to wait for hours at the Mexicali border even though I’d heard it was much less intense than the Tijuana border crossing. We chose to enter this side of Baja California because we knew the least about it and I’m really glad we did. We didn’t stop even once driving through the border except for a second in disbelief when we were waved through all the checkpoints with neary a glance. We didn't even show our passports, nothing was stamped, no forms to fill out, zero questions, zero car searches. We simply drove from America to Mexico. We’ll take it!

-You first enter Mexicali and you’ll want to fill up your tank in this border town. If you have a Costco membership there’s one not too far away. Do not attempt to buy anything at Costco besides gas because you will discover lines that stretch the expanse of the store! Get cash, water in Mexicali before you venture out because from the border to San Felipe was one of the expanses that was least inhabited. 

***TIP: Oxxo is the Mexican equivalent to 7-11, though they often have public bathrooms (baños) and never have ATM’s (cajeros).

-We ate at a roadside place called “Asadero Dany'' chosen because we noticed our options were drying up as we exited Mexicali. It was one of the last groupings of roadside businesses on the way out of  town. They had carne asada (beef), carnitas (pork) and pollo (chicken). You could get your tortillas made of maize (corn) or harina (flour) and they had a ton of salsas and toppings just waiting to make that handmade wonder even more delicious. With those bites of roadside tacos we felt rooted back in Mexico. 

-We didn’t have internet until we were about 45 minutes from San Felipe and once there we found ATM’s, many meal options, a malecon (aka boardwalk), and everything needed to refuel. I also found lots of great camping, air bnb and hotel options in all price ranges.

The border entry at Mexicali was the easiest crossing I’ve ever had, we weren’t stopped even once, just waved on through! Right on, San Felipe here we come!

San Felipe: Our AirBnB was really beautiful but in a gated community a little ways outside of town. When we ventured into the town proper, it was very quite, not many people around or in restaurants, I’m guessing because it was a Monday night and off season.  We had a lovely meal at Matilde Restaurant on the waters edge, the moon light was bouncing off the Sea of Cortez and we toasted to my husband/travel buddy’s birthday (His name is Justin)  and our first year of marriage. Magical about describes it. We had frozen yogurt at Ikhalicream for dessert. I was bummed they didn’t have their most popular flavor that is black and includes activated charcoal for detoxing and improved digestion! I wonder what San Felipe is like in the high season. I imagine it's malecon buzzing and all the businesses lit up and filled with tourists, the smell of delicious food in the air and colorful souvenirs to bring home….

Tuesday Dec 6- Bahía de los Ángeles, Baja California

8 am: Leave San Felipe

    Drive: 5.5  hours 

1 pm: Bahía de los Ángeles

Check out our Bahía de los Ángeles AirBnB & Review 

The Drive: This drive was stunning and hugged the water much more closely. A steady dotted row of small houses trailed along the shores of the sea.  Simple living indeed, we kept speculating what it must be like to eat mostly from the sea, unbothered by the perils of suburban and city life, living somewhere where you can see the stars every night and where you live unhurried. Bahía de los Ángeles is off the 1 Freeway by way of 12 Freeway that took us out to the coast. The roads on the 12 looked like they had been washed out in spots by a storm because there were patches of rock and dirt, crews were out clearing them though. When we got to San Felipe the one main road through this tiny town was paved but every other road was dirt and quite rocky.

-Be sure to gas up in San Felipe! There is a big gap of space where there is no gas. The first gas station we saw came out of nowhere, in Rancho Grande. It didn’t have a bathroom, was CASH ONLY and about 5-9 pesos per liter more than we’d seen. There are gas stations in Bahía de los Ángeles but we heard that sometimes they run out of gas. Plan accordingly.

-WiFi Alert: There is virtually zero wifi from outside San Felipe until, and even within, Bahía de los Ángeles. I repeat: Bahía de los Ángeles does not have any cellular service but you will find WiFi at certain lodgings and businesses. We had lunch at the only spot we could find that was really open at that time at Corto del Sol and the wifi didn’t work BUT our AirBnB had an excellent connection.    

-Bahía de los Ángeles: This was a real eye popping town in terms of rural, off the beaten path wonders. For a town that only got public electricity two years ago it had a very well stocked market, quite fancy avocado toast  and really great fish and shrimp tacos. We made sure to spend time at the most famous beach, Playa La Gringa which is north of the main hub at the end of a long dirt road. There were plenty of people camping, fishing and swimming in the cold clear water along the way. In a weird turn of events the electricity was shut off, the whole town went dark, it was eerie and the stars popped  brightly. It was dinner time so we drove down the bumpy road and found that the main grocery store Mercado La Isla had lights on and could process payments (guessing they had generators). There was nowhere else to buy food or any way to cook it so we grabbed some cereal and tried not to be bummed about missing a meal at China’s Place, a highly recommended spot for tacos along with Las Hamacas next door. All of a sudden, as we were about to turn up our street, all the lights came back on, it was maybe a 25 minute ordeal max. The only business that seemed to reopen for dinner was a  little taco shop across from La Isla. Turns out we still had “eat amazing tacos'' written in the stars because Bahia Tacos came in clutch with delicious fish tacos and great homemade salsas of all types.

Bahía de los Ángeles is well worth driving off the beaten path. The lack of cellular service and beauty you can look away from create a dreamy experience of warmth, embodied patience and ease. (Clockwise: avocado toast from Siete Filos, sunlight on the bay, lounging at Playa La Gringa, moon rise over the bay.

Wed Dec 7- Mulegé,  Baja California Sur

8:30 am: Leave Bahía de los Angelos

     Drive: 7 hours + Lunch in Guerrero Negro + 1 hour time change from PST to MST

3:30pm: Arrive in Mulegé

Check out our Mulegé Air BnB & Review

The Drive: Before we hit the road the next morning we stopped at Siete Filos, a lovely coffee shop with a history of working to help turtle populations surrounding Bahía de los Ángeles  thrive and protect the incredibly diverse ecosystem found off its shores. They had great coffee, wifi and a smashing avocado toast (and if you’re looking to camp or glamp, they seemed to have some awesome options). I’m not sure how it was possible but things just kept being more and more stunning on this portion of the drive. You cross the peninsula as you go back out the 12 Freeway from Bahía de los Ángeles, and cross from the 5 Freeway on the Eastside of Baja, to the 1 Freeway which goes up the westside. It’s still two lanes but seemed to be more traveled. We had lunch at a delicious birria spot in Guerrero Negro called Carlitos Birriaria. This is the first town through the wilderness after you cross the border into Baja California Sur and encounter a one hour time change forward. It’s a sunny, no frills town with pep and makes a great pit stop, it’s full of services, places to eat, gas stations and ATM’s. There were many water activities nearby but we had a date with Mulegé!

-Outside of Guerrero Negro they we’re repaving large portions of the freeway. A makeshift dirt road ran parallel to bypass the work. Sometimes traffic was at a snail's pace and the clouds of dirt and dust kicked up everywhere in the two lane jam. We were on the road soon enough.

Out of the desert rises the oasis of Mulegé! Photo Credit

-There is a checkpoint outside of Ciudad Insurgentes, another larger town on the way. This was by far the most thorough checkpoint. We were asked to get out, they checked our car/trunk, asked questions and struck up a friendly conversation with us about our trip.  No documents were asked for and we were on our way pretty quickly.

-Unless you’re outside of one La Paz or Cabo the freeways are all two lanes, quite narrow and usually don’t have paved shoulders if they have any shoulder at all. Today's drive included straightaways as far as the eye could see where you could zoom along and make good time and also steep cliff sides, with no guardrail, hair pin turns and a few semi-trucks thrown in for fun. We took it slow in those parts. There was more construction and dust clouds in the seaside mining town of Santa Rosalia so we sort of wrote it off as we trudged through but we noticed some really cool stuff like old mines and delicious looking spots to eat as we drove out of town. Made us curious….

Mulegé: Mulegé (pronounced moo-le-HAY) means sasis in Spanish and pulling up to this town after a long dusty day on the road felt like rolling into some luscious wonderland in the Sahara. All of a sudden clusters of green trees and  swaying palm trees pops up and you notice a running river through a mysterious town. You’ve made it to Mulegé. Our air bnb was right on the river and we ended up eating at a gringo laden spot named Jungla Jims. There was a pool table, board games and the fish tacos and wings were good. The biggest reason we went there was that it was a stone's throw from our river front porch. Otherwise I’m sure there are great places in the charming town (we had a chance to try another spot on our return trip through Mulegé for lunch). 

-In the morning we gassed up, got coffee and pastries in town at  Mago’s Coffee and Sweets and were off.

Mulegé, live and in color! Our Air BnB was steps from the river that winds through this actual oasis in the desert. Could have used another day to explore beyond the riverbanks and take in the iconic aerial view above town at Mission Santa Rosalia.

Thursday  Dec 8- La Paz, Baja California Sur Day 1

8 am: Leave Mulegé

     Drive: 7.5 hours +   Lunch in Ciudad Insurgentes

3:30 pm: Arrive in La Paz

Check out our La Paz Lodging at Peace Hostel & Review (recommend booking through the hostel if possible)

The Drive: This was maybe our favorite part of the drive, both ways. White sand and black sand beaches hidden in bays and mountain coves kept popping up. There would be 5 RV’s and a shack on a wide stretch of beach, it looked so serene and uncomplicated. We had cellular service for long chunks of the drive 

-We stopped about halfway in Ciudad Insurgentes which was a formidable sized town. We gassed up and had a lovely lunch at Playas al Novillero. After this part of our trip we noticed that LTE or least 3G service was abundant and there were more cars on the road. We were getting close to a bigger city.

-We stayed at a great hostel called Peace Hostel because we wanted a more communal, social feel. The first night we got there we were so overwhelmed with dining options and finally settled on a reviewed and recommended place called Tailhunter Sea Level. The grilled shrimp taco was pretty much the best shrimp taco I had the entire trip! The fish taco was maybe the worst, which was a bummer because it was massive. We had to add salt and citrus to the guacamole and the margaritas were lip smacking delicious, so let’s just say “Mixed Reviews.” We knew better than to eat at overpriced touristy places right on the water but we were looking for something a bit grand and luxurious and in the action (although many of the absolutely beautiful restaurants stayed empty).

The time we spent meandering around La Paz made me like it more. You run into things; animated flags, eye popping street art and the aroma of churros and roasted corn.

Friday Dec 9- La Paz, Baja California Sur Day 2

-Hang in La Paz

La Paz: I didn’t find this out until I visited but there's no in-town central beach in La Paz . There’s a large and long boardwalk with art and a row of restaurants facing the beautiful bay but the water is not water you swim in and there’s really no beach where you would  post up for the day with a blanket and umbrella. Right outside of La Paz are some of the most beautiful white sand beach coves and amazing black sand beachs and water activities but you do have to  leave town. I just recently learned that La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur and that makes sense to me, it does not have the “party all night” vibes of Cabo nor the “art/woo/entitled expat” vibes of Todos Santos, which I consider sister cities. It seems a bit more sober, more chic and city-sure in the tourist areas and more functional and middle class small town in the areas where I saw more local Mexican people. I think I was expecting a more beachy vibe and it’s more cosmopolitan/urban. You gotta go to find these things out!

-We ate REALLY well in La Paz once we agreed to not eat in the touristy areas across from the malecon. Starting behind the waterfront street, are some trendier, local and hip businesses but we felt like eating at mercados, taco stalls and street carts. It was super easy to eat superb local food in any setting you’re looking for. Based on how many Mexican people were there (lots) we went to TacoFish, a beautiful buzzy restaurant with MASSIVE fish tacos and more manageable (and arguably more delicious) shrimp tacos. You order your food from a cashier, sit down with your number and they start to bring the feast to your table, you then hit this EPIC salsa bar, the most diverse one we saw, to make the tacos your own. We happened to be there on the day Argentina beat Denmark in the World Cup  so it was a pretty cracking atmosphere. As we were leaving we saw a sign, it turns out this spot was on the  “Tacos Pescados” episode of Taco Chronicles, Netflix’s entertaining and mesmerizing taco documentary. We attempted to eat at every single one of the Fish Taco places mentioned in that documentary and did all but one!

-Justin had an excellent early morning golf session at Cabo Real, a resort across the bay, and I walked around and hit one of the two mercados in town for some Oaxacan cheese and tortillas to make some breakfast quesadillas. After he returned we went to the stunning and famous, Ibarra Pottery where they have beautiful hand made and painted traditional Mexican Pottery. You can get tiles, plates, platters, napkin holders, pots, all the things and it’s gorgeous and affordable. Because we were driving I could take three big planters for Christmas gifts, platters and bowls. It was a great shopping experience and reinforced my appreciation for Mexican artistry and indigenous craftspersonship.

-By this time in the trip it was almost code red for clean clothes so we dropped our laundry off at La Paz Lava, not our first choice but they could do it by the next day when others couldn’t. We picked it up and it was fine, woohoo fresh underwear! It costs about $6 for someone else to wash, dry and FOLD it all. Hot Deal indeed! We felt like an afternoon treat and hunted down Las Jugo Frutas for pressed juice and smoothies. 

-Around dinner time we went back to the hostel where they had been cooking a massive pot of delicious pozole all day. For a few bucks we shared a bunch of bowls with a group of Quebecois folks, some French, Mexican, American  and more people. We played drinking games and laughed and spoke in the same and different languages. A DJ started up with loud music and it went till 1am. The owner swore it only happened once a week. We weren’t mad, we knew what we were getting into with staying at a hostel and community was what we wanted. It’s nice to meet people, swap travel stories, get recommendations (and important cautionary tales!) and practice our Spanish. 

Don’t miss the tamales outside the Aramburo supermarket in La Paz! They were the best I’ve ever had, it’s official. I think food tastes better the closer it remains to the hands that prepare it.

-The first night we arrived in La Paz I had noticed a woman selling tamales at the local grocery store Aramburo. There was a small line of what appeared to be locals when we parked right near her and four hours later the line had quadrupled. OF COURSE we returned the second night, there was no one in line yet and we ordered three. They were, Officially, documented, the best tamales I have ever had. I would return to La Paz just to have these tamales. YAAAAASSS!!! One of those food experiences you don’t forget, currently salivating.

Saturday Dec 10- Santa Rita Hot Springs & Cabo San Lucas Day 1

7 am: Leave La Paz

     Drive: 2.5 hours

9:30 am: Arrive in Santa Rita Hot Springs for a soak in a natural hot springs

     Drive: 75 minutes

1 pm: Arrive in San Jose Del Cabo for lunch and exploring

    Drive: 40 min

3:30pm: Arrive in Cabo San Lucas

Check out our Cabo Air BnB & Review

The Drive: Our driving days were much shorter once we got to La Paz, the main  towns in BCS are pretty close together. Santa Rita Hot Springs was by far one of our favorite places and I wish we’d gotten out there earlier! Make sure to get gas in La Paz before heading out.

-Santa Rita Hot Springs: This is the perfect jaunt to/from/or while staying in Laz Paz or Cabo. We went on the drive from La Paz to San Jose Del Cabo and it was a MAJOR payoff, must do!  It’s about 12 miles down a dirt road and a friend did it in a Prius so most cars should be good.   I wonder if it’s much rougher during the rainy season when roads might become washed out. Just when you start to doubt it’s there you will come to a dirt clearing that looks like you’re in someone's front yard (and you are kind of). A gentleman came out of the house to a covered table and we got wristbands and directions (in Spanish) down the hill to the waters. Parking was free and located in that same dirt clearing. You can bring coolers and stay all day or soak for a few hours. We were the first ones there, we paid $150 pesos each, bring cash, and exact change if you’ve got it. 

-It is very easy to reach the hot springs down the hill but we somehow got lost and Justin hiked 30 minutes the wrong way! We found a silver lining because we discovered parts of this mystical area that we would never have seen, cool streams of water pouring into blue pools over smooth rock with palm tree shade and warm sun. When we finally found the hot springs we realized how we had missed the wooden boardwalk right to it! The water was wonderfully hot, they gracefully built a very natural looking pool big enough for 20 people before it could get awkward. There is a slight sulfur smell that you quickly get used to. When you’re nice and hot you can jump in the river alongside it for a blood shunting, natural healing cold plunge. You can then lay out on the rock like a lizard and enjoy the silence and tranquility. The minerals are said to heal in various ways but the whole experience itself can really change the mood and soul. Bring lots of water to hydrate well!

Santa Rita Hot Springs between La Paz and Cabo is one of a kind. It’s the perfect place to soak in restorative waters and tap into the nature of at the tip of Baja California. You’ll drive about 12 miles out on a dirt roads and through winding hills but it’s worth it!

San Jose Del Cabo: We floated into San Jose Del Cabo following our soak for a nice lunch. I knew virtually nothing about San Jose Del Cabo, the little town to the East of Cabo San Lucas. It was adorable! Gentrified/Americanized but oh so instagrammable with Mexican flags flying overhead, cobblestone streets, charming boutiques and facades painted in bright colors. We had fish tacos at La Lupita Taco y Mezal, it was interesting to have VERY different fish tacos but give me the down home basic version any day.  After about a week of traditional fish tacos we got a rise out of trying ones wrapped in rice paper, lettuce, and even topped with curry! Prices were noticeably higher and English was being spoken all around. We got gelatos to follow at Almazan and strolled around. Not sure if we would stay the night because it felt like a place that gets sleepy pretty early. I think for honeymooners it’d be perfect, it felt very romantic.

San Jose Del Cabo had unique tacos and beautiful facades. It’s small, romantic and an experience all its own.

-We stopped at the Cabo Costco to re-up on gas and get some new tires! When we started the trip my tires were getting long in the tooth but still ok. I wanted to get them checked and get air in my tires and see if they needed replacing. Two were still good and I got two replaced. I think the cost is basically the same as the US but we only waited an hour and popped into Costco where Justin bought more golf balls and a snorkel to use the next day.

-The location of our Cabo AirBnB was perfect.  It was within walking distance to everything but in a quiet part of town and relatively cheap (with a pool). We got a long good nap in because we knew we’re going to have the biggest party night of the trip here on a Saturday night (planned it that way!). I can only imagine the crowds and mayhem during high season times like  Spring Break. Even in super off season by the end of the night most of the numerous bars had a healthy amount of people going late into the night. We started our night with dinner at a very classic Cabo spot called Tacos Gardenias. They were about 40 minutes from closing so maybe it explains the rushed service but it doesn't explain the bland tacos and the underwhelming amount of delicious salsa/toppings that we’d become accustomed to at past meals. 

Cabo San Lucas: After dinner we ventured out on the town! The crowd seemed like folks in their mid-30’s+, probably because most college kids are studying for exams and parents with young kids are still doing the school thing in early December. We walked all around to take it in and at about 9:45pm things were just starting to warm up on the scene. We walked out to the marina where there was a row of restaurants and a few bars. We stopped at a place called Nowhere Bar because they were playing a nostalgic, sing along mix that included Aliyah, The Fugees, Backstreet Boys and more. A mob of servers ushered us to a table and waited on us eagerly. The drinks weren’t cheap but the atmosphere kept getting more lit by the minute and the light up dance floor filled up quickly. We danced and sang along with a very diverse and friendly crowd. The music started getting a little funky and not really our jam so we decided to move on. We turned the corner back into the main part of Cabo’s party central and it was pumping!! It’s been awhile since I’ve raged and when you’re four margaritas in and this is the last true party night you’re going to have for a while you get into it. We couldn't take ourselves home, the FOMO was real! So we ventured into this huge club that took clubbin to a new level. Thank goodness we ended our night at La Vaquita. They were cracking open Co2 tanks to fog the crowd up, lights were going off, everyone was singing and the best reggaeton was playing. Why not have one more and keep dancing?? ¡Órale!

Saturday Night in Cabo delivered on the all night party vibes we were going for! We didn’t pay any covers, the dance floors were hot and there’s a bar or club for every taste.

-We finally started making our way back around 2am (this is when walking distance lodging rules) and the bars were still going. We stopped to get tacos at a small stall. Sadly, I didn't catch the name, but we devoured them in our room and they were delicious. One of the bags of salsa they included was majorly hot so, Public Service Warning: try a little bit of unknown salsas first. Luckily, I love spicy foods, but wow! Because we try to be responsible adults we popped some ibuprofen, chugged a bunch of water and passed TF out directly after the taco fest. Luckily all we had to do the next day was spend the day at the beach!

Sunday Dec 11- Cabo San Lucas Day 2

-Cruise at the beach all day in Cabo

-We knew a night of late night partying was going to require us to recharge to the sound of the waves while sipping on Pedialyte (available at every Oxxo) and eating fried things. We chose El Medano Beach, the main one in Cabo, because we could walk to it. I love spending a day at the beach, jumping in the cool water when my skin gets hot over and over again to warm up yet again in the sun.

Cabo/El Medano Beach Day Options:

-DIY: Our AirBnB had beach towels and a beach umbrella which is a pretty ok set up to start with. As an upgrade, we could have gone to Costco and bought two great beach chairs for $90 and taken them home, returned them or left them behind. Some rentals have beach setups included which can be a money saving plus. Know this, if you set up on the public beach you will be approached throughout the day by vendors selling souvenirs, day trips, food, fruit and more. It’s a fun way to get your shopping in but can quickly grate if you’re looking for a quiet haggle free beach day.

-Rent on the Beach: There are dozens of locals selling beach umbrellas and chairs set up for around $20-$70 all day. The chairs are the basic Costco/Tommy Bahama low seat ones which do recline and the umbrella helps with all day comfort. Many of those vendors will go to the restaurants and bars and bring you what you want but they aren’t  affiliated with a resort or restaurant. 

-Stay in a beach resort: Many all-inclusives or beach resorts have a beach area or beach club that comes free with your stay. A very nice plus if you go that route.

-Dine in: There are restaurants with no loungers/beach chairs but  tables and chairs right on the sand where you can enjoy the beach for a meal (or two!)

Beachside sushi at Corazon Beach Club at El Medano Beach, Cabo.

-Rent lounger chairs/daybeds/cabanas from a hotel: We wanted to treat ourselves so we went with this option. Many of the hotels and resorts will sell their plush and comfortable beach chairs and move your fancy umbrella throughout the day. You get a dedicated server to ferry drinks and food and you also won’t experience the beach vendor traffic. In other parts of Mexico you usually agree to pay anywhere from $20-$50 in food and drinks and you enjoy the chair all day. In Cabo we were stunned at the median price: $50 to just rent the chair and then another $50-$100 in Food and Beverage was common. I had a vision of sipping a fresh pressed juice with a plate of ceviche followed by fries and finishing a whole damn book so of course I gave in when we found Corazon Beach Club. They had TV’s in the bar because my husband wanted to catch the Seahawks Game. They had a DJ so the music was great all day and their menu looked delicious. I got my juices, we had ceviche, nachos, I even had a tortilla soup as the sun was setting and things got chilly. In the end we didn't get charged the $50 chair fee and we easily spent over $100 anyway for all day lounging. Money veeeery well spent. 

-El Medano beach has few zones you can swim in. You have to pay attention to the flags, ropes and signs to make sure you’re not swimming where the busy marina boats and jet skis exit and the tide is too dangerous to swim.

-We headed back at sunset and needed our fish taco fix so we went to Los Claros Tacos and had some really downhome tasty tacos. They had a great do it yourself salsa bar to make it our own and panko fried fish taco, instead of the most common tempura. Still in no way sick of fish tacos.

-To complete the hangover process and put the perfect end to our day we had dessert at the famous stuffed churros spot, Churros Rellenos (which means “filled churro”). I love churros but this busy street cart takes things a step further and hollows them out to fill with caramel (cajeta), chocolate, sweetened condensed milk (lechera) or strawberry (fresa). I got mine without filling because I love churro straight up but Justin’s chocolate and caramel ones were all gooey goodness.

-We slept like babies….

Monday Dec 12- Todos Santos, Baja California Sur Day 1

1 pm: Depart Cabo San Lucas

     Drive: 1 hour 

2pm: Arrive in Todos Santos

So glad I ordered the aguachile this time instead of its cousin, ceviche, which I order pretty much every time. Ceviche is raw fish or shrimp marinated in citrus juice, with aguachile it’s marinated in a mouth revelation of chile water. Glad I took the, bait, it was fabulous at Wachinango’s!

Check out our lodging at Todos Santos Hostel (Booking is done over the phone or email and review is on Google)

-We had half a day in Cabo left before we would be driving one hour or so north to Todos Santos. Justin woke up early and went golfing at Cabo Real Golf Club, he said it was stunning and that the prices were akin to high end US golf courses.

-I was working on the road so I had a chance to get a lot of work done while Justin golfed. I chose to have a working lunch at Wachinango’s, mostly because it was near to our AirBnB post checkout. If Bubba Gumps was Mexican owned and served awesome aguachile that’d be this place. I can’t talk too much crap, the service was quick, the wifi was pretty good and the food was delicious. Justin picked me up after and we were on our way North following the Pacific Ocean.

Todos Santos: This is a super charming town with artisan shops and stylized restaurants galore. The main roads are paved but most of the side streets are dusty and rocky dirt roads and feature more local businesses. The town center is full of hip, modern and American geared restaurants but we did find authentic taco stands and Mexican restaurants. It was in Todos Santos that we saw the most foreign license plates. Mostly from Oregon, Colorado, Washington and California.

-We strolled around Todos Santos on the first day there. Justin had his lunch at the very delicious TacoTeca. This upscale taco stand was part of a beautiful, plant filled courtyard with other interesting stalls to shop, eat or get coffee. The tacos were lovingly prepared in front of us and included handmade tortillas, homemade sauces and even a duck taco!

-Justin got ice cream and I got frozen yogurt at Froyo and we strolled around, found a great lookout and cathedral near the “Todos Santos” sign and found the actual Hotel California, which is said to be where the popular song was inspired.

-There is no beach front right in town so we spent the afternoon lounging around the hostel. We had dinner at a more authentic Mexican restaurant at the DELICIOUS Alma y Many’s. We watched mariachi videos and enjoyed chile rellenos and I had the best chicken tortilla soup I think I’ve ever had, WOW! 

-When we got back to the hostel Justin had the chills and his body was starting to ache and I was wheezing a bit and had a cough. Uh oh….

Todos Santos is an ex-pat haven 1 hours drive north of Cabo. It’s charming in that higher end gentrified way. From the top left: The actual Hotel California, TacoTeca gourmet taco goodness, our tent at Todos Santos Hostel, delicious chicken tortilla soup at Alma y Many’s and the Todos Santo sign.

Tuesday Dec 13- Todos Santos Day 2  & Los Cerritos Beach

-Hang in Todos Santos

-We had spent the night coughing and hacking. I woke up feeling groggy and Justin was fully sick, he’d had a fever all night.  His sickness seemed to come out of nowhere so I guessed it was the flu. To be real, if we were gonna get sick, I’m glad it was in Mexico where you can get basic pharmaceuticals without an expensive doctor’s visit and an even more expensive prescription. We found a pharmacy and bought the generic form of Tamiflu (oseltamivir). It’s an antiviral medication that shortens or prevents development of the flu. You need to start the 5 day course within 48 hours of detecting flu symptoms or being exposed. The pack in Todos Santos cost $22 but normally it costs $10-$12. It absolutely does the trick in 24 hours, next time I'll be bringing a dozen boxes home for friends and family!

-We got juices to boost our immune system at Surf’s Up Smoothies, a great walk up spot with fruit and veggie smoothies and juices, bowls and everything you need to support the body's ability to overcome illness.

Los Cerritos beach facing north to Pescadero. This beach and town are a 20 minutes drive south of Todos Santos and offer a glimpse of what I think it might have looked like 15 years ago. It was peaceful and serene.

Los Cerritos Beach: I figured a nap in the fresh air and sun would be good for us and I was craving another day at the beach so we headed 20 minutes south to Los Cerritos Beach. I thought it was going to be remote and little developed compared to Cabo, and it was, but small beach condos and shacks and bigger hotels are being built along the beach. The little town of Pescadero nearby is all dirt roads but we spied beautiful fancy looking Air BnB’s and micro resorts along with cafes and restaurants. The gentrification is certainly on its way but it’s still very charming and idyllic. 

-We parked in the free lot a short walk from the beach. There were only a few cars there. There were a very small amount of chairs and umbrellas for sale but we had a blanket and the sun wasn’t so hot. Further north up the beach is the town of Pescadero and there were many more people and beach setups down there. I definitely want to come back and explore. What a peaceful, beautiful place to nap and read. We didn’t get in the water because you can only swim in certain parts of the beach, but the sound of the waves, the horses and their riders passing by, the solitude (there were maybe 8 people even remotely around us), and the soft sun were therapeutic. I could have spent all day there but I had a call for work scheduled and had to leave before my beach cup was full. Morning meetings only if you have to work while you travel!

Pescadero:I partly chose to spend the day at Pescadero/Cerritos Beach because it was near the famed Barracuda Cantina, another one of the taco shops featured on “Taco Chronicles.” I was most excited for this one because their batter had spices and herbs in it that others didn’t. We rolled up to the cool looking beach shack in Pescadero but sadly, it was closed! No! The women there let us know that there was actually a small satellite location in Todos Santos in the same beautiful  courtyard as TacoTeca. I guess that would have to do.

-We went back to the hostel to get some work done and a few hours later we went to Barracuda Tacos Todos Santos. It was closed, NO!!!!!! Put it on the list of reasons I would need to return to Baja California, sigh….

-We ended up at a spot across from a beautiful fountain called Santo Chilote. We got our requisite fish tacos and hit the great salsa bar. Justin took a turn for the worse and couldn't even take a 2nd bite, he had no appetite and had to rest in the car while I slayed my tacos and watched the sun set, yay for me, sad for bae.

-Justin went straight to bed and I repacked our suitcases because I was starting to feel sickness coming on and figured I might not be feeling so well in the morning. Justin actually threw up! We coughed all through the night, it was terrible. The Geminids meteor show was going on this night though and on one of my walks to the bathroom I stopped, looked up into the dark night sky and stared until I saw a big streak of light across the sky. Wish we were well enough to take in more!  

Wed Dec 14- Loreto, Baja California Sur

8 am: Leave Todos Santos

     Drive: 6 hours + Lunch in Ciudad Constitución

4 pm: Arrive in Loreto

Check out our Loreto Air BnB & Review

The most frustrating part of the drive was not being able to capture the beauty in photo! You just have to see it to believe, see how it morphs and changes in massive ways every few kilometers.

The Drive: We  were now in our ascent back North toward home. The majority of this drive was a repeat back towards La Paz and north again,“our favorite part yet” we’d declared several days before. I wish we’d felt better and could spend another day on a beach all to ourselves. We chose to stop for the night in Loreto because the pictures struck some intrigue and it was the perfect amount of driving to not drive at night but put a dent in the long way home through the undeveloped middle of Baja California. 

-When I woke up this day I felt terrible but Justin was feeling way better. I decided to start taking the antiviral medication and realized I should have just started taking them when he did! Thank goodness we had gassed up and packed up the night before. I’m grateful Justin felt well enough to drive even though it was my turn (we switched off every day). We stopped for coffee and another round of nutrient packed juice at Jugos Oasis Todos Santos and we were on our way.

-We stopped in Ciudad Constitución for lunch, Justin very randomly pulled over at a taco stand on the main road called Ya Abrimos. I can’t find it on Google Maps but it was delicious and easy and the service was warm.There was no menu, they just told us what tacos they were cooking up that day.

Loreto: Loreto was maybe one of my favorite stops, which surprised me because this wasn’t a town I’d heard of before planning the trip. It’s on the water with a strong fresh off shore breeze. There is no beachfront but a beautiful malecon sits on the Sea of Cortez with nearby islands in view. The businesses range from authentic Mexican spots to expat boutiques and restaurants but it feels more authentic than taken over by foreign visitors despite the plethora of signs in English. There is a stunning plaza with the picturesque old church that you see in most pictures, (Mission of Our Lady Loreto) and manicured trees thickly arching over brick walkways leading into stores and restaurants along the way. The main lane leads right to the water. Another paradise!

-Our AirBnb was within walking distance to the beautiful town square so we got to walk all over the town and explore before sunset. As we headed back home, I got a course of antiviral medication for myself and got into bed. Justin was feeling better but I descended into a chill ridden, body aching mess. All I wanted was tortilla soup so we heeded Google and our hosts advice and we called in a pick up order to Orlando’s Restaurante.It was a game changer! While it didn’t match Alma y Many’s in Todos Santos it warmed me from the inside out, curing me of the chills and filling my belly without having to spend too much energy digesting. 

-I woke up feeling WAY better, what a relief. Before we hit the road the next day we gassed up and got another round of fresh fruit/vegetable juices at Los Mandiles de Santa Lucia. I had wanted to take a few more pictures of the water and bay and this spot was right across from the sunny, windy boardwalk. Pretty fitting end to our short stay in dreamy Loreto. 

The arched hedges over the lanes of Loreto and the sparkling waterfront made it one of our favorite stops and one of the places we want to return to. If we had felt better we would have explores some of the stunning white sand beaches nearby.

Thursday Dec 15- Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur

8am: Leave Loreto

     Drive: 6 hours + Lunch in Mulegé

2 pm: Arrive in Guerrero Negro

Check out our Guerrero Negro Air BnB & Review

The Drive: The trip from  Loreto to  Guerrero Negro covered ground we’d already seen and I was kind of dreading this drive because it had high cliffs that wound through steep mountains with no guardrails. And tractor trailers galore! We had also encountered stretches of road that were being rebuilt and made to drive on the adjacent super rocky and dusty road at a snail's pace. It turns out the roads through Santa Rosalia had been paved and finished in the time we had last been there and we got to enjoy the cruise through town way more. Going up a mountain feels less stressful than going down a mountain for me apparently so we breezed through this drive with ease, there was nothing to be afraid of.

-By now Justin and I were back to 80% or so but our rib muscles were sore from our now waning coughing fits. Thank goodness for Mexico’s pharmacy system, ibuprofen, pedialyte and the power of positive thinking!

-The drive brought us through beautiful Mulegé once again so we decided to stop for lunch and spend a little more time in this special place.  We plopped down at Asadero Danny, an open faced rustic taco shop run by  a very kind couple. They had a bathroom and the  ish and shrimp tacos were delicious and served with a platter of great salsa, everything we needed.

Guerrero Negro: We cruised into this mid peninsula stop before sunset. On our previous pitstop on the way south we tried but we were never able to find the plaza or town center (Centro). Maybe we missed it but it seems to mainly consist of a broad bright road lined with small businesses and surrounded by wetlands with small squat concrete buildings making up its suburbs. Past that is the Pacific Ocean, islands and bluffs to explore on day trips. You have all the services that you need here and our Air BnB was very comfortable.

It’s Official: the best fish taco we had on the trip was at a truck in Guerrero Negro called Tacos El Muelle!

-My friend who had done the trip before made me promise to eat at a local taco truck and the Google reviews were pretty convincing too. It was here at Tacos El Muelle that we had the best fish tacos of our entire trip! It’s Official!! First of all they were done in minutes so thinking maybe they get prep cooked and then finished upon order for a crisp, next level flavorful taco. The salsa bar was so diverse and  delicious and you ate on a bench right by the truck, it was perfect. Still thinking about those tacos! At that point I wasn’t sure we’d have a truly stand out fish taco in a parade of great fish tacos but these stood out in ways we couldn’t really put into words.

-Our dirty clothes bags had once again become full and lo and behold we found a laundry spot called Lava Max, located right next door to one of the best places in Baja for fish tacos, that could have our clothes washed, dried and folded in a matter of hours. I picked it up from the very kind lady, repacked and we were back in business for under $8. I could definitely get used to never doing laundry again.

-We went to bed super early because the drive the next day was supposed to take us 10 hours, our longest Baja stretch by pretty much double….

Friday Dec 16- Ensenada, Baja California

5 am MST: Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur, Mexico

     Drive: 8-10 hours  + Lunch/refuel in El Rosario + 1 hour time change from MST to PST

2:30 pm PST: Arrive in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico

Check out our Ensenada Air Bnb & Review

The Drive: We decided to take the 1 Highway up into Enensada to experience the last leg of Baja that we hadn’t driven through yet. We had tons of ground to cover on this last day as the places to stop from Guerrero Negro to Ensenada are few and far between. Figuring out what time to leave so that we weren’t driving at night was a bit of a brain buster. We knew that about 10–15 minutes after leaving Guerrero Negro/Baja California Sur we’d be in Baja California, one hour behind and that El Rosario was where we’d be stopping for lunch. I surmised that we needed to get on the road at 5am and so we did and it was pitch black! Ugh, I didn’t want to drive at night because of the dark but I’d forgotten about early morning. Doink. Luckily the road out of Guerrero Negro was beautifully paved, flat and straight. There is absolutely no internet 40 minutes outside of Guerrero Negro until 15 minutes before we entered main El Rosario but luckily it’s pretty hard to get lost when you’re on one two lane road for most of the drive. Definitely gas up fully before leaving GN or you are subject to the gas trucks (cash only) before reaching El Rosario’s gas stations, if they’re even open. Because the road was so flat and empty we kept a fast pace (average 90-100 Kmph) . We cut the 6 hour drive from GN to El Rosario from six hours to four.

The expanse from Ensenada to Guerrero Negro is all wide open spaces and unspoiled nature. Gas up in Santa Rosalia in either direction as stations are few and far between!

-At this point it was hard to figure out which part of the drive was our favorite but the drive up the 1 Highway between GN and Rosario was spectacular. Once the sun rose (so beautiful!) we stopped to take pictures that don’t quite sum it up. Yucca (Joshua Tree), ocotillo, red rocks, buttes, flowers, an oasis or two, it was all there. The wind was cold off the rock faces and cars wouldn't pass for 30 minutes at a time. 

-Our LTE service flickered on as we approached El Rosario. There were a few different gas stations, grocery stores and restaurants. We didn’t see an ATM but were able to get cash-back at a Pemex. We ate at underwhelming Mama Espinoza, apparently a very famous stop for racers/motorbikes. The service was awkward, the food was meh but they did have a little gift shop, parking and toilets. They were cash only so we had to scramble for that cash-back. We’ll take it, can’t win 'em all!

-Our place did slow considerably as we got 1 hour or so outside of Ensenada. All of sudden after hours of beautiful wine country and a short checkpoint stop we started to hit town after town. Around Manadero we noticed  potholes, collectivo stops (local bus stops), busy farms and stop lights becoming more and more frequent. Suddenly we entered the commercial part of Ensenada. There was a Costco, we saw a Starbucks, many Carl’s Jr’s and I got a bit melancholy. The beauty of the untouched desert and the small towns of Mexico were behind us. Our trip was quickly coming to an end and the long fingers of American culture and capitalism were curling around us again. Dramatic much?

Ensenada: As a San Diegan I’ve visited Ensenada plenty of times. I’ve done the jump off a cruise ship and party thing, visited La Bufadora (a famous blowhole) and camped on the pristine waters and peaceful cliffs. This was really the first time I’d be exploring the town beyond the bars and souvenir stalls right off the dock. The sun was shining when we pulled in and since we got in before check in we got iced coffee and strolled around the waterfront. This seaside town doesn’t have a central beach and the malecon isn’t as defined but there is a large town square and a buzzy urban vibe in the town proper. Our AirBnB was located at the top of a giant hill overlooking the whole city and the views were unreal at sunset (and especially right before sunrise!)

-Our last Baja Fish taco experience was upon us and we had a list of three different taco stands from Taco Chronicles that we wanted to try in Ensenada. Since they are steps apart we planned to do them all in one night, 3 stands, 1 fish and 1 shrimp taco at each! Here’s how it went:

We had an epic Baja Fish Taco showdown in Ensenada! The three places on our list were within walking distance and we’d heard about them on the Netflix documentary, Taco Chronicles (Vol 2 Ep 7 Pescado). After almost three weeks of fish and shrimp tacos, I still wanted/want more!

Tacos Corona: These ended up being our favorite of the three but we did wonder if the third taco stand was at a disadvantage because our bellies were at max capacity by then.  Either way, there was an extra kick of brightness and flavor in these tacos. They were served with a smile and a bunch of people were alongside us enjoying the food. Great salsa bar! Justin learned the hard way that the common fish taco salsa with  red onions and little orange flecks is SUPER hot, I’d learned weeks before but he didn’t heed my warning, those flecks are habanero baby!

Tacos Floresta: This stand had the best vibes but maybe it’s because a guitar busker was there, setting the scene with a mournfully  beautiful mariachi song. Or maybe because we had a funny conversation with the locals about the range in heat on the salsa bar. There was also Jamaica (ruby red dried hibiscus juice) to refresh the palate with. I didn’t see the habanero/onion slaw that I love (in little amounts) but there was still a good amount of salsa bar and crema options.

Tacos Fenix: This stand was bustling with faithful customers when we pulled up. By this time we were pretty dang full, should have shared tacos but these babies, it’s really hard. Although I could have done the last round of tacos, Justin waved the white flag and we made the mistake of taking them to go! Baja fish tacos are meant to be enjoyed on the spot. They’re meant to be hot and crispy and in the short drive home they got steamed up. The taquero’s had done their best to package them well, it wasn’t an odd request, so there were still spots of crispiness and the toppings had been packaged separately. Even in that state they were pretty good so I wonder if they might have been the best….a reason to return indeed!

-That night I got up to close the window and caught a glimpse as the sun was just barely peeking over the mountains casting a shimmering glow on the water. Ensenada has never disappointed, this trip was no different.

The sunrise over beautiful Ensenada. I think sometimes this town can get written off as a cruise ship port only. Big mistake. Exploring a bit further means being wowed by the raw nature, luscious vineyards and great food the region has to offer.

Saturday Dec 17- Border Crossing & Rancho Cucamonga, CA USA

8am: Leave Ensenada

      Drive: 2 hours to the San Ysidro Border Crossing + 6 hour wait time!!! 

8pm: Arrive in Rancho Cucamonga, CA

The Drive: The drive from Ensenada to the border crossing can be done by local road (don’t do it, it’s a way slower and at times treacherous) or toll road which costs around $6 (3 tolls, 40 pesos each, have your cash ready). The toll road is flat, wide and hugs the coast for truly lovely driving up the 1 Highway. 

Worst. Border. Crossing. Ever. We waited 6 hours in line time time. I’m not sure if that is normal it frayed the nerves. Be sure to fill up on gas, pack water, snacks and things to do and don’t make concrete plans following the crossing.

The San Ysidro/Tijuana Border Crossing: Absolutely gas up in either Ensenada or Tijuana because we ended up having our WORST border crossing and we’ve collectively crossed the Mexican border over 20 times. I have never waited in the car crossing line more than two hours or so. We were backed up all the way into the city and it would move a few feet every 15 minutes or so. The vendors immediately begin to circulate the cars selling everything from windshield washes, toys, blankets, and piggy banks. As you get closer to the border they begin to sell coffee/beverages, churros, meals, tortillas, fruit and more. We bought some churros and tried to be upbeat but after three hours and not even being close, reality set in. Luckily the vendors even sold gas because many cars ran out before they reached the border just from idling. People would leave their cars and head into businesses to use the restrooms but for a long stretch on a bridge there were no businesses. There isn’t internet service even that close to the border and our free allotment of LTE service courtesy of T-mobile  was long gone, throttling us barely usable service.  The border wait time websites were inaccurate all day.

-As we finally began to curl into the part of the border crossing that was familiar to me there appeared the shop stalls and restaurant stands that were the source of the products of the people working the car line. They also had bathrooms, pretty rough but usable for 20 pesos (that includes entry, tp and a paper towel to dry hands). We were saving our appetite to eat at my favorite place in SD but ordered more churros. They sat like lead in our stomach. Luckily, we had water in the car. We wanted to spend our last pesos in Mexico so we bought two packs of flour tortillas.

-Finally, broken and just OVER IT, we reached the border, handed over our passports. They thoroughly checked out the car, asked if we were bringing anything over (didn't mention the tortillas but pointed out all our ceramic). We rolled into the USA at last.

Ironically one of my favorite places to eat in San Diego is not a taco spot, it’s an Italian sandwich at Mona Lisa.

-We gassed up at Costco and dropped by the Ocean Beach house of a dear  friend for a quick hug and gift pickup. We had planned to hang out and have lunch with him after crossing the border, how naive we were! I don’t recommend planning an event or a long day of driving on the day of a border crossing, especially at San Ysidro. Our reward for the nightmare at the border was a delicious, next level sandwich from my favorite spot in San Diego, the deli counter at Mona Lisa Italian Foods in Little Italy. It healed many wounds and after weeks of fish tacos an Italian smoked turkey and provolone on the best bread felt pretty special. The last leg of our journey took us Northeast to Rancho Cucamonga. We picked up some pre-rolls and gummies at Culture Cannabis Club in Jurupa Valley (where we saw a roadside taco stand that made us instantly nostalgic) and landed at the awesome home of the beloved family of one of my best friends. They’re warm, vibrant and loving company  and the hot tub under the stars in their backyard at the base of the San Bernardino mountains made us feel whole again and it finally set in that our journey through Baja California had come to an end.

-It turns out my friend's mom had done the Baja Road trip in the 70s! No google reviews,  no GPS, limited gas and dining option and no brand spanking new roads. I just couldn’t fathom it! We were talking about the same cities but hers spoke of Indigenous people in small towns unheard of yet by the world's road trippers. I hope to see pictures so my brain can make sense of the different world it must have been.

Sunday Dec 18- USA Journey Home Day 2

10 am: Leave Rancho Cucamonga

Love me a protein wrap (aka lettuce wrap) burger from In N Out when we road trip through OR/CA

 Drive: 7 hours + Lunch at In-N- Out Burger (cuz ya just gotta)

5 pm:  Arrive in Sacramento

The Drive: We opted to take the 99 Freeway up to Sacramento instead of the 5 freeway mainly because they had Costco’s where we could gas up along the way. The 99 is not a pretty freeway and I found out later it’s the most dangerous road in the US though we made it safe and sound. We had dinner and spent the night in Sacramento at Justin’s family's house. They are awesome and we had seen them on our way down for a great brunch. This reunion really felt full circle.

Monday Dec 19- HOME!

7am: Sacramento

     Drive: 13 hours + Lunch in Medford

8pm: Arrive Home

The Drive: This was our longest drive home and we felt every hour. We’ve also done this stretch many times which would be boring if you weren't passing the majesty of Mount Shasta and the mountain passes between California and Orgeon. We stopped for lunch at a really delicious Hawaiian food spot in Medford called Noho Hawaiian Cafe. It was a great move because the portions were so massive we didn’t even need to eat dinner and again, after weeks of fish tacos, a totally different cuisine was quite intriguing on the taste buds. We hit some rest stops, switched drivers a few times and finally we got off the freeway and were home in Burien. It felt really relieving and satisfying  yet with that gloomy, heavy feeling that arrives when you return from a great adventure.  It was freezing and I just kept thinking about how days before we were at the beach, bellies browning in the sun. But it was Christmas time and we were sick of driving all day and we had lots of fun times planned with our loved ones over the next few weeks. We were pretty lucky to get home when we did because an epic winter storm covered the entire region in a sheet of thick ice just days after. Luckily my husband makes a mean fire and cozy vibes were just what we were looking for.

We arrived home to a snowy winter wonderland! And then an epic ice storm came…Perfect timing to be off the roads and fireside:)

Summing Up The Trip Through Baja:

Once you start looking you’ll absolutely be drawn in by the majesty, warmth and peace of Baja California. We love Mexico, we love the desert, we love road tripping and we love to fish tacos so truly this journey was a match made in heaven. 

We could have done this road trip cheaper (economy lodging, food cart only dining, no golfing and shorter stays) but this trip wasn’t about penny pinching or speed. We could have done this road trip more expensively (premium lodging, souvenirs, longer stays, side trips and excursions) but this particular trip was about being immersed in the expanse of the desert at a rhythm closer to gallop. I look forward to return trips where I’ll engage more with the magic of the waters and beaches and learn even more.

We had family members who were worried about our safety but we had 0 moments where we feared for our safety. We were treated with kindness and respect everywhere we went. The trip was almost too easy for experienced travelers like us as most gas stations, restaurants, checkpoints and lodgings are readily available.  Still, our best experiences were when we just followed our gut or took a little risk. We felt like our wanderlust was satiated because we’d really never seen anything like the Baja California landscape. We have a list of places we’ll be returning to, mostly the beaches surrounding Loreto and even Cabo for something like a friend or family birthday blowout. I will also be visiting Ensenada and Tijuana, (which we missed)  many more times before I leave this earth, they’re like familiar old friends.

The epic road trip through Baja is one I highly recommend for nature lovers, beach bums and roadtrippers anywhere. Remember to slow it down, embrace a spirit of kindness and respect the land, histories and culture of the Mexican people while you visit their home:)

Until the next journey, Heather Ace xoxo   

I’ll never forget our road trip through Baja California. I highly recommend it for road trip lovers, beach bums, desert wanderers and lovers of the sea (and seafood). I look forward to returning to Loreto, Mulegé and the the beaches in between to discover even more.